When Mussolini brought in engineering experts to drain and reclaim the countryside north of what is now Rome’s Fiumicino airport, the area was malarial marshland. Some 70 years later, the twin beach towns of Fregene and Maccarese are being converted into weekend retreats, complete with buzzing restaurants, stabilimenti (bathing clubs), and nightclubs. While there’s no need to spend the night—Rome is only 21miles southeast—expect to stay until dawn. Here, the best of both worlds. FREGENE Filled with tiny workers’ cottages and hay silos, this old fishing village is now populated by glamorous young locals who never remove their sunglasses. Miraggio Club ( Day rate from $8 ), a privately run stabilimento , is the place to spend the day, with its Olympic-sized pool, tennis courts, and deck chairs for rent. · La Baia ( Lunch for two $90 ), another bathing club, has a homey trattoria for a leisurely meal. · Later, dress up for a dinner at the whitewashed cottage Mastino ( Dinner f...
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